Ripalta e Pantano: Il chiarore dei lidi del sud

9.367 commenti / Arte e fotografia / Di

Il Grand Tour era un viaggio intrapreso a fini culturali dall’aristrocrazia europea, specie inglese e tedesca, solitamente aveva come destinazione l’Italia dove le mete principali erano: Como e il lago, Milano, Venezia, Verona, Firenze, Roma e Napoli; questa consuetudine nasce nel XVIII secolo e si protrae fino alla fine del XIX secolo. I più avventurosi proseguivano poi il viaggio esplorando anche il meridione della penisola.  
Il “Petite Tour“, solitamente fatto dopo il Grand Tour, comprendeva numerose tappe dell’allora Regno di Napoli. A seguire vogliamo render note le parole di un anonimo aristocratico del Lancashire, in Inghilterra, che all’incirca a metà del XIX secolo, come consuetudine per i nobili dell’epoca, si era recato in Italia per il “Grand Tour“, e anche se nel diario che vi proponiamo non è specificato il luogo dove si trovasse l’anonimo gentleman inglese, le scene e i paesaggi descritti rimandano alla nostra costa, in particolar modo alla Cala del Pantano e alle grotte di Ripalta (lungi dal creare fraintendimenti, si suppone che il nobile inglese si trovasse in una piacevole località della costa vicino Napoli, tappa obbligata del Petite Tour).
Sappiamo bene che il nostro anonimo scrittore inglese non stava certo descrivendo gli ameni luoghi ad est della nostra città ma, concorderete certo sul fatto che anche la Cala del Pantano e le Grotte di Ripalta sono luoghi abbagliati da quel “biancore pallido” di cui si parla in queste pagine di diario, specie nei caldissimi giorni di agosto dove l’afa rende quasi impossibile uscire nelle ore più calde.

“The whiteness of the southern shores “

August 12th, Voyage en Italie

Time fades away

in the endless whiteness of the morning,

the August sun shines on the clear waters,

in the heat,

a boy is resting,

he lays his bare feet on the tender grass,

the voices of the fishermen can be heard from afar

as they cheerfully return to these shores in small boats.

and here,

in the pale whiteness of these southern shores

splendidly framed by fragrant blossoms,

soft shoots of grapes and shady olive trees,

my spirit finds quietness

refreshed only by the shadows of the twigs.

“Il chiarore dei lidi del sud”

12 Agosto, Voyage en Italie

Il tempo svanisce

nel biancore infinito del mattino,

il sole d’agosto brilla sulle acque chiare.

Nel caldo,

seduto sotto un leccio

un ragazzo sta riposando,

posa i piedi nudi sulla tenera erba,

s’odono da lontano le voci dei pescatori

che con aria gioviale tornano su queste rive

a bordo di piccole imbarcazioni.

E qui,

nel candore pallido di questi lidi meridionali 

incorniciati splendidamente da olezzanti infiorescenze,

molli tralci d’uva e ombrosi ulivi,

s’allieta il mio spirito

rinfrescato solo dalle ombre dei ramoscelli.  

La bucolica scena del ragazzo che riposa e dello straniero che si gode le bellezze del mare e di una calda giornata d’estate sono riportate anche nella traduzione italiana del diario che ha come titolo “Voyage en Italie” dato che l’aristocrazia inglese cominciava spesso il Grand Tour in Francia e proseguiva poi il viaggio in Italia, considerato il paese che poteva arricchire culturalmente più di qualunque altro paese europeo per la sua eredità prima classica e poi rinascimentale e barocca.
Le Grotte di Ripalta e la Cala del Pantano sono mete frequentate per giornate all’insegna dell’ozio, della tranquillità e della contemplazione della natura da diversi secoli; già nel XVII secolo i cittadini biscegliesi erano soliti frequentare questi luoghi nei giorni di festa tant’è che nel ‘600 i vescovi che si avvicendavano al potere si videro addirittura costretti a rimproverare i fedeli perché queste gite venivano fatte durante le feste religiose più importanti e andavano a snaturare la vera essenza spirituale di tali eventi, è qui che nasce il mito biscegliese del “lunedì del Pantano” ossia la Pasquetta con la quasi obbligatoria gita in campagna o più semplicemente l’espressione “andare al Pantano” per indicare una gita fuori porta1.

Cala Pantano


Una delle prime menzioni della Cala del Pantano nei documenti ufficiali la si ha nel ‘600, quando l’area era conosciuta col toponimo “Arena di Sant’Angelo” e fu venduta ad un ecclesiastico che voleva farne una zona di pesca2. Il territorio si presenta come una specie di palude, con le maree cambia notevolmente la portata d’acqua all’interno della cala che con l’alta marea porta numerosi pesci all’interno dell’insenatura.
La cala è di origine naturale, formatasi grazie a diverse sorgenti, prima fra tutte la Lama di Santa Croce (anche Lama di Macina), questa composizione orografica fa sì che i campi circostanti vengano inondati nei mesi più freddi e che si formi, appunto, un pantano, da cui deriverebbe il nome odierno dell’area. Non mancano elementi archeologici degni di nota, nei pressi di questa zona infatti furono rinvenute tracce di un insediamento Neolitico dall’archeologo Francesco Saverio Majellaro, la sorgente che sfocia nella piccola insenatura era certamente un’importante fonte di sostentamento per le genti che vi abitavano tutt’intorno.  
Negli anni 60 del secolo scorso invece il Pantano ha assunto importanza per via della fantomatica apparizione di una creatura, chiamata “mostro del Pantano” che si suppone fosse semplicemente un volatile dall’apertura alare molto ampia; la notizia suscitò la curiosità dei cittadini tanto da tramandare la storia fino ai giorni nostri.
La cala del Pantano non è però l’unico “locus amoenus” virgiliano della costa; qualche centinaio di metri ad ovest di questa insenatura si incontrano le grotte di Ripalta (Ripaldo, nei primi accenni topografici, poi italianizzato in Ripalta)3. La costa di questo tratto di litorale è alta e rocciosa, poco meno di 10 metri s.l.m. nel punto più alto della falesia, sul sentiero delle grotte si incontrano molteplici trulli, muretti a secco anche di origine piuttosto antica e altre costruzioni agresti ormai in rovina che però aumentano il potenziale scenografico della zona.
Le grotte sono cinque e hanno i seguenti nomi: Grotta della Spina, Grotta di Compare Girolamo, Grotta della Punta di Ripalta, Grotta del Polpo e Grotta della Volpe.

  • Trulli e muretto a secco presso Ripalta
  • Veduta delle Grotte di Ripalta

L’atmosfera di questi luoghi è onirica, si tratta di un’area quasi incontaminata, ancora in larga parte selvaggia e quasi immersa in un tempo altro. La vegetazione lussureggiante sui fianchi delle vallate formate dalle sorgenti crea un paesaggio tipicamente mediterraneo e, nelle calde giornate di sole e con venti favorevoli, si vengono a creare atmosfere pittoresche e di grande fascinazione.
Si vuol concludere con l’invito a godere dei paesaggi appena descritti e, soprattutto, a prendersi cura di essi. Di seguito vi proponiamo una galleria di immagini dei luoghi che hanno ispirato queste righe, abbiamo poi scelto di accostare a tali immagini dipinti di pittori e pittrici stranieri realizzati nel XIX secolo e facenti parte del filone della paesaggistica, le vedute sulla tela raffigurano i panorami meridionali negli anni del Grand Tour e del Petite Tour.

Si percepisce, all’interno di queste opere, quella luce mediterranea che inonda il paesaggio e rende calma e allo stesso tempo vivace l’atmosfera, atmosfera di certo familiare.

  • Louise Josephine Sarazin de Belmont, Vue de Pausilippe, 1842. 
  • Martinus Rørbye, Loggia in Procida, 1835

Articolo di Ivan Di Clemente

Fotografie di Ivan Di Clemente

 Grafica di Alessandro Povia

NOTE:

1: Mario Cosmai, Bisceglie nella Storia e nell’Arte, Eurografica s.n.c. Bisceglie. 

2: Luca De Ceglia, Mauro Sasso – Da Cala Pantano a Ripalta, Viaggio tra storia e natura. 

3: Mario Cosmai, Toponimi Biscegliesi, Quaderni del Centro Studi Biscegliese numero 2

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